Whale Of A Time

Information here is shared by word of mouth, not Yelp. Serendipity and chance encounters at gas stations and campsites dictate whom you meet, where you go, and which of Baja's secrets you'll uncover - and sadly those which you were never meant to find.

Heading back to the east coast of the peninsula, I crossed paths with a dirtbiker covered in sand - that emblem of a day's earnest riding, of trails proudly conquered, and involuntary dismounts even more proudly suffered. As the fine dust fell from his face like a dessicated snowfall, he advised me to head back up the highway, turn off on a dirt road to a fishing village and ask around for "Papa," who would let me use a palapa on the beach for $10. In fact, it was only $2.50. In general Baja really isn't very cheap, but deals like this can still be found.

The next day, I didn't know where to go, but as luck would have it I ran into Andy and Lisa whom I'd met in San Felipe three nights prior. They told me of a superb campsite which also runs whale watching tours. We both headed there, and it should come as no surprise that they bought me dinner that evening. I promise that I really do decline these offers once or twice before accepting, though I wouldn't necessarily describe my performances as "emphatic," "convincing," or "sincere."

There are three large bays in Baja where the world's entire remaining population of gray whales come each winter to give birth. All you have to do is take a small boat out there, away from the calves and mothers, and let the curious males come investigate. It's clear that they do so of their own volition and even enjoy being petted (they're extremely satisfyingly squishy, FYI). When you lock eyes with one of these sentinels of the deep that has been patrolling the briny abyss longer than you've existed, you can be certain that there is an intelligent mind at work behind them. Their huge, contemplative eyes regard you with a curious stare that seems to say, "We don't know what you get out of this, but thanks for the scratches, and good luck up there." It's then that you realize this is not a whale watching trip for you, but a people watching trip for them.